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Orval's iconic bowling pin-shaped bottles waiting to be filled (image by J.P. Remy) within their grounds. I immediately order a Chimay Gold, the monastery’s patersbier . Lighter than other Trappist brews, the patersbier was traditionally brewed for the monks’ own use each day – with an alcohol level of around 4% ABV, it was considered light enough for a devout monk to sip on and still continue his day of praying. e beer was good, but I liked their cheese more. I opted for their smaller platter, which featured four cheeses – Blue, Red, Vieux and Doré. e Doré is the mildest of the four, so I started with that, working my way through the stronger Vieux and Red and nishing with the Blue’s sharp and tangy taste. e Vieux was my favourite, as a Gouda lover, and I found it paired perfectly with the slight sweetness of a bottle of Chimay Rouge. A BEER OF LEGEND A two-hour drive west to the coast of West Flanders followed. From French speaking Wallonia’s beautiful greenery and hills to the atlands of West Flanders’ coastline, the views were bleak and uninspiring. Luckily the Beemer ate up the kilometres in silence along the gloomy road as I drove past large cemeteries lled with small, white crosses – a stark reminder of the trench warfare of the First World War where thousands lost their lives in this corner of the world. As you drive through the village of Vleteren, a sign the size of a pencil case points you towards “Wes-Vleteren Abdij”. Zig zag past suburban houses and you arrive at a nondescript entrance. is is the Abbey of St Sixtus, home of the Westvleteren 12, often hailed the best beer in the world. It is simply amazing and a tribute to the monks and their quest for silent devotion and a renouncement of worldly things that the maker of the so-called world’s best beer is virtually invisible in its complete absence of any advertising or branding. e process of purchasing Westvleteren beers has become as legendary as the beer itself. You can only buy their beers by rst making a call to the paters to reserve a crate for you – and nothing more. Volume is strictly monitored, and the monks only sell to individuals, as no shop may sell their beers. Plus you must come and collect it in person, providing the licence plate of the vehicle you’ll be driving in advance. Of course, there is a loophole, with the café across the road from the brewery selling six-packs of the three beers – the blonde, the 10 and the legendary 12 – on a rst-come, rst served basis. Sadly, it is a Friday when I visit and I nd the café closed. Until my next trip I will have to take it from beer lovers around the world that this beer o ers an other-worldly experience. HOPPPING OVER TO HOLLAND With the disappointment behind me, it was time for the third and last leg of my Belgian beer dash. I headed northeast, back to Antwerpen, where I swung by the Westmalle Abbey for a glass of dark brown, fully avoured Westmalle Dubbel: one of my favourites. e nal drive took me across the border into the neighbouring Netherlands for a relaxing lunch and beer tour at the abbey of Koningshoeven, better known by the name of its beer label, La Trappe. Both Westmalle and La Trappe have large, modern cafeterias serving food and beer and it is quite the occasion for locals in each town to come out and have a brunch of beers and wafels. In a small country that produces over 400 di erent types of beers, the monasteries form an essential part of the Belgian beer culture. You’ve done the Cape Wine Route. Next time you’re lucky enough to be in Europe, treat yourself to something completely di erent and sign up for a beer tour – just try and travel with a designated driver so that you can take full advantage of the brews. The Maredsous abbey has quite the playful character The Orval beerglass resembles a traditional goblet. Chimay beer and cheese tasting platter Entrance to Scourmont Abbey, home of the monks that brew Chimay WORLD OF BEER 26 | Spring 2020 | ontapmag.co.za