OnTap Magazine

Nico Fourie ‘fell’ into winemaking by accident Sitting adjacent to the tiny hamlet of Herold, the Herold Conservancy promotes a well preserved, natural environment in this part of the Outeniquas. A hands-on owner who seems to enjoy having a finger in every proverbial pie – whether it’s serving behind the bar, checking on guest meals or looking after the on-site bottling plant – he is happy to show us around the property on a bright summer’s morning. PINOT, RIESLING, BUBBLY AND…BEER? Herold Wines produces mainly pinot noir, a red cultivar whose characteristics include high acidity and low tannins. It also has a flavour that depends heavily on where it is grown and how the winemaker treats it. According to Nico, Herold was the first winery in the area to produce pinot noir, although there are now five such producers. There are also a few produced along the Plettenberg Bay wine route, about an hour’s drive away. But, in general, the soil around Plett is better suited to white wines. When it comes to reds, small quantities of cabernet, merlot and Shiraz are also produced at Herold. For lovers of white wine there’s a sauvignon blanc, a Riesling and a natural sweet wine. A Cap Classique bubbly is on the way for the first time. Also on the way is a boutique brewery, which should come into operation in 2018. It’s perhaps an ideal location, given that the Outeniqua mountains are home to so many hop farms. COOL EVENING MIST “What makes Herold Wines unique is that our highest point is 700m above sea level and we are just 15km from the coast,” explains Nico. “So we benefit from the cool mist that comes in during the evening. It’s particularly good for the pinot noir, which wants to ripen slowly. So the climate is ideal and the soil – heavy with lots of clay – is right too.” Indeed, he’s quick to let nature take credit for the good wines produced here, rather than his inherent ability as a winemaker. “If the grapes are not good, the winemaker can’t create good wines,” he observes. The rain – an annual average of 822mm – and mist in these mountains are integral to the process. “It’s almost too wet; once I went for four years without ever having to turn on a pump!” Nico tells us. But that brings its challenges too. Mildew is a constant threat and is managed with vigilance and responsible spraying. But poison is off the table. “I don’t spray with it; I don’t keep it on the farm,” he says emphatically. “Our wine is very organic. Because our grapes have got a high acid content, the pH is very low. So this is very good protection for the wine and I put very little sulphates into it. Natural is good; I believe in minimal intervention and I try to work as simply as possible.” BEAUTIFULLY BOUTIQUE That’s not to say that the grapes don’t need protection from pests – although here the pests are larger than on your average wine farm. Bush pigs are a regular threat and the local baboons are quite partial to chomping on a grape or two; so much so that the entire Shiraz harvest has twice been lost to their marauding ways. “It is part of being in this beautiful environment,” says Nico with a shrug. Apart from the outstanding natural beauty, Herold Wines is unusual in other ways too. Bottling is done by hand using a small, permanent on-site plant. “We are one of only two wineries in the Little Karoo and Garden Route that bottles in this way,” says Nico. Also unusual is the fact that names of employees involved in the wine-making and bottling process appear on the labels. It’s another endearing trait for an endearing boutique winery that’s well worth a visit. The Montagu Pass is best tackled with a 4WD. If you prefer to drive on tar, take the Outeniqua Pass then join up with the Montagu Pass for the last 4km. Herold is open for tours and tastings. Accommodation is available in self- catering cottages. NEED TO KNOW Photos: Jeanette Simpson On Tap / Autumn 2018 / 23