OnTap Magazine

ontapmag.co.za | Winter 2025 | 27 I n late April, the Beer Culture Center hosted its 7th annual “Beer Culture Summit.” This Summit is a four day conference that “embraces one very important aspect of [the Center’s] mission: that beer is more than just a beverage.” The Center itself is a registered nonprofit cultural organization, and the “world’s first nonprofit dedicated to sharing global stories of beer.” They believe that beer is a “dynamic cultural force with the power to bring people together and the ability to influence change.” (Amen!) The annual Summit, which debuted in 2019, is their forum for bringing “researchers, professionals, and everyday beer enthusiasts” all to the in-person and virtual table for lively and impactful discussions of all kinds. I have attended several of the Summit’s panels over the years, and I always find them to be inspiring and thought- provoking. This year, as interested as I am in the ways that beer can give back, one particular topic stood out: “Ports in a Storm: Breweries’ Role in Sustaining Community During and After Natural Disasters.” The conversation was driven by two fundamental questions: “What does it mean to serve your community in the midst of life-threatening emergencies? And what are breweries' roles in sustaining the spirit of a place after the initial danger has passed?” Breweries from Asheville, North Carolina who faced down the wrath of Hurricane Helene in September of 2024, as well as breweries from Los Angeles (LA), California that suffered through the 14 separate wildfires that swept across the LA County area in January of this year, gathered to compare notes on their experiences. These experiences were, in some ways, on opposite sides of a single coin: on the one side, as businesses nearly destroyed by these disasters, and on the other, as businesses that were spared physical destruction, but that quickly stepped into the void to offer their support. Hurricane Helene wreaked havoc on the Zillicoah Beer Company in Asheville, situated as they are along the French Broad River. In a social media post from the days after the storm, the owners expressed gratitude for the safety of all their staff, before making it clear that if Zillicoah were to rebuild, it would be from “nearly square one.” The tone of that initial Instagram post was unmistakably somber. Burial Beer Company, also in Asheville, fared much better, the hurricane leaving little trace on them physically. Instead, one of their two taprooms became a place to gather. According to Jess Reiser, co-owner of Burial, staff and community members – without being in direct contact with one another – naturally gravitated towards their downtown location. People relied on word of mouth to spread the news of the full extent of Helene’s damage, especially as internet and cell service became spotty or cut out altogether. Without running water or electricity, Burial could hardly function as normal; as such, they leaned into becoming this organic community gathering space. They prepared whatever food they had on site and served it for free. Then supplies started coming in so they morphed into a supply hub momentarily. As days passed, the needs evolved and so did Burial. “Our philosophy about hospitality,” Jess explains, “is it's really about service. It’s not just about dropping a plate or pouring a beer. It’s about what it means to serve others, and that means your customer, your collaborator, your industry – and it means your community.” Common Space Brewery was roughly eight kilometres away from the closest of the LA fires; their location ultimately spared from the flames. They did have employees who had to evacuate their homes at various points, and the oppressive smoke kept patrons away for a spell. But in the meantime, inspired by breweries of the recent past that had initiated fundraisers following wildfires (like Maui Brewing’s “Kokua Project”), Common Space launched WE LOVE LA, a “fundraising collaboration…to raise funds and coordinate support for those impacted by the LA wildfires” according to their website. Very soon after launching, over 150 other breweries pledged their support, with Creature Comforts and Firestone Walker specifically offering to “help manage and expand the campaign.” Creature Comforts is based in Georgia, although they have a location in LA as well, but luckily, like Burial and Common Space, neither their Georgia nor LA locations were physically impacted by the hurricane (which traced a destructive course through Georgia) or the fires. Given this bit of fortune, Matt Stevens, Senior Director of Strategic Impact at Creature Comforts, tells the panel that they found themselves considering “how do we position ourselves to actually move into the support systems of both events.” He goes on to say that in the immediate aftermath of a disaster, it’s often wise to wait for the dust to settle before jumping in to help, so you don’t risk impeding more pressing work. Their engagement