OnTap Magazine

Fritz Maytag saved his favourite brewery from closure by purchasing it FRITZ MAYTAG 1 A few figures can be credited as the instigators of the modern craft beer (with some mentioned in this list). Fritz Maytag stands out from the rest given the romantic nature of his revival of the Anchor Brewery in San Francisco. It also helps that the Anchor Brewery’s flagship beer, Anchor Steam, has played an inspirational role as a style which still captivates craft and home brewers. Stated simply, way back in 1965 Fritz Maytag saved his favourite brewery from closure by purchasing it and proceeding to transform it into one of the most iconic craft beer brands today. Importantly, he also laid the framework for much of the egalitarian business management philosophies common among craft brewers to this day. C raft beer is notoriously difficult to define. For me, craft beer is about the story and those stories tend to begin with the people that make this industry different and special – the brewers. Most of the great breweries, both locally and abroad, have their brand intrinsically linked with the founders or brewers, giving the brewery a personality. Let’s have a look at 12 (well, 13 if you’re keeping count) heroes of the craft beer revolution. KEN GROSSMAN 4 A handful of American breweries took the craft beer revolution from small regional successes to national brands, starting a wave which spread through the USA and much of the rest of the world. Arguably the most well-known is California’s Sierra Nevada and their visionary founder Ken Grossman. Started in 1979 with a collection of discarded dairy equipment, this is now one of the largest brewing companies in the USA. They have set the bar not only for quality and innovation but also sustainability, generating most of their energy needs from renewable sources. A great business success story driven by a great innovator. KIM JORDAN 2 As the co-founder of Colorado-based New Belgium Brewing Company, Kim Jordan was pivotal in driving interest in Belgian beer styles in the USA, including the sour and mixed culture fermentations which have become so popular today. Beyond ground-breaking beers, the brewery has always been a leader in sustainability and ethical business practices. NewBelgium is 100%employee owned and generates a large portion of its energy requirements through solar arrays and methane harvesting. JAMES WATT AND MARTIN DICKIE 5 In 2007, James Watt and Martin Dickie founded their brewery as many do – with rudimentary equipment and a very localised supply network. In just 14 years it has grown to include five brewing locations, more than 100 bars all over the world and a string of craft beer hotels. This is, of course, the sensational – and often polemic – BrewDog. Along the way they have brewed some of the most interesting and controversial beers – including the world strongest – and blown away traditional beer funding and marketing models. And if a recent post from James Watt comes to pass, we could be seeing them in South Africa fairly soon… GREG KOCH 6 Before BrewDog was breaking down doors with their brash and abrasive approach to brewing, there was Stone and their co- founder Greg Koch. Founded in 1996 they built what is now one of the world’s most recognisable craft beer brands, making bold statements and backing them up with bold hoppy beers. The embodiment of this spirit is their flagship beer, Arrogant Bastard, and its tag line “You’re not worthy”. Stone also defined much of what is now referred to as West Coast IPA, and continues to push the boundaries today, even as they have grown to be the largest craft brewery in California. GARRETT OLIVER 7 Sadly, craft beer does not show a great degree of diversity but this is thankfully beginning to change. One trailblazer in this regard is Garett Oliver, brew master of the iconic Brooklyn Brewery since 1994 and editor of the Oxford Companion to Beer. One of the leading proponents of beer and food pairing, his book, The Brewmaster’s Table, is the authoritative work on the topic. He has been quite outspoken on diversity in craft brewing and has started important conversations which have led to diversity being embraced as the path to continued growth of the industry. Last year he also launched the Michael Jackson Foundation for Brewing and Distilling which aims to help people of colour further their brewing education and careers. LARS GARSHOL 8 Kveik is the word on every brewer’s lips these days. It seems crazy that it was largely unknown outside of western Norway just a few years ago. Lars Marius Garshol, a technologist and beer enthusiast, started taking an interest in the farmhouse beers of his native land. He published stories of his travels and research on his blog and inspired brewers around the world to begin sourcing, cataloguing, and experimenting with these remarkable yeasts. Thanks to his diligent work, Kveik has become an international sensation sending shockwaves through the brewing world to an extent which we have probably not yet fully realised. SAM CALAGIONE 3 Crazy flavour combinations and boundary- pushing alcohol levels are somewhat commonplace in the modern craft brewing world. One of the early boundary pushers who showed just how exciting craft beer could (and should) be was Sam Calagione at Dogfish Head Brewery in Delaware. From his pioneering 90- and 120-minute IPAs to the Ancient Ales series there is no doubt that he set a precedent for experimental brewing. ontapmag.co.za | Winter 2021 | 53