OnTap Magazine

WHAT IS AN OLD ALE? Old Ale is a dark, rare, English style of beer that blends an aged malt character with a vinous fermentation profile to create a truly exceptional beer. It has an unusual lineage, tracing its origins to the earliest usage of hops. It’s a historical style that, like all beers, has evolved considerably over time. Centuries ago they were originally called “stock” or “keeping” ales; strong beers brewed for aging. Postwar they evolved to a more everyday malty beer, but today are experiencing a revival in celebration of its historical, strong barrel aged roots. Not surprisingly, these beers were called “old” since they were matured for months or years at a time in barrels or large wooden vats. The long aging mellows out the strength, while melding the sweet malt flavours. Over time they develop dry, tart or fruity flavours from a secondary fermentation with wild yeasts or bacteria. Centuries ago, a secondary fermentation with the wild yeast "Brettanomyces" was a hallmark of fine British beers. As they aged, Old Ales developed a smooth, complex character similar to vintage wine. Old Ale has evolved significantly in the UK, keeping its dark, malty profile, while forgoing the wood-aging process and long fermentation for a more every day, clean beer flavour. Today craft brewers have rediscovered Old Ales and are beginning to brew examples that show the traditional aging and secondary Brettanomyces fermentation flavour. OLD ALE TODAY The modern interpretation in the UK took hold after World War II, as rationing and regulations lowered the malt and strength of most beers. Some examples adapted over time and survive today. The most popular among these are Theakston’s Old Peculiar, a great ale for drinking on cask with a dark colour and a toasty, rich maltiness yet a smooth easy drinking profile. For a time, the only long-aged example you couldfindwas an infamous beer called Gale’s Prize Old Ale, first brewed in 1923 at Gales Brewery in southern England. It has since been revitalized a few times by adding a fresh batch to a container with the remains of previous batches. When kept well, this beer develops rich leather, tobacco, and dark fruit notes over many, many years of aging. Nowadays though, a few passionate craft brewers have begun brewing historically inspired examples, bringing back the strength, rich character and barrel-aging. WHAT OLD ALE MEANS TO US At Soul Barrel, we believe Old Ale can stand among the great beer styles of the world. Unlike any other style, it bridges the space between long-aged imperial stouts and barleywines, and classic barrel- aged Belgian Lambics and Flanders ales. Barrel-aged beers typically fall into two general categories: strong, malty beers that mellow and mature in the barrel, while picking up character from the barrel or previous spirit; these would include stouts, porters and barleywines. The second type of barrel-aged beers are wild or naturally fermented with secondary yeasts or bacteria, where the barrel serves as a porous fermentation vessel that houses the microbes, and these include sour or wild ales. Old Ales are among the only style that utilizes both aging techniques in one beer. These beers are complex and malty, with deep, intense flavours that fit a variety of occasions or food experiences. They are among the most wine-like styles around in that they balance the malt sweetness with fermentation acidity. These beers will appeal to a growing drinker base exploring new styles of beer, looking for something refined and complex. They have the flavour intensity and richness of a stout or barleywine, without the roasty bitterness or booziness from a delicate balance of malts and a long aging process. They are exciting for any barrel-aged beer fan, with the dry, pepperiness of Brettanomyces beers, yet a more subtle tartness then Belgian Lambics or more aggressive sour ales. WHAT TO EXPECT Old Ale strikes a fine balance of rich, fruity maltiness with a refreshing, tart and dry finish. The fermentation flavour is important for these beers, balanced by the sweetness from the malt. Toasty, rich caramel notes are common, with sometimes a touch of roastiness. The balance and diversity of flavours are unlike any other beer. TIPS FOR BREWING A good Old Ale should show a balance between rich malt up front, an estery fermentation profile and dry tartness from long aging. Oak character should compliment and play well with the overall profile. A beer like this starts with great malt: rich English pale ale base malt, with a layer of fruity and malt caramel malts. The trick is to create sweetness and residual sugars, while not making it cloying or overly roasty or harsh. A good estery ale yeast is also important. This is not a hoppy style of beer so hops are used to help structure the malt and fermentation flavours. ontapmag.co.za | Summer 2024 | 55