OnTap Magazine

42 | Summer 2024 | ontapmag.co.za Very rarely will you meet a fellow beer lover who would turn down a pint of Guinness. Even if they secretly don’t enjoy the most famous stout in the world, the idea of admitting it seems nearly blasphemous. After all, how can you doubt the quality of a beer that has been brewed with the highest standards since 1759? That same year, Arthur Guinness himself signed a nine thousand-year lease for the St James Gate Brewery in Dublin: there’s ambition and then there’s embracing the undeniable. Enthusiasts who have had the privilege of journeying to Ireland will put a visit to the famous brewery at the top of their list. The experience will take you on an upward journey through the history and processes, culminating like a little nitrogen bubble at the head of the building. Finally, on tired legs and eager hackles, you enjoy a pint or two with the three-hundred-and-sixty-degree panoramic views of the city. This is certainly the pièce de résistance of the experience, and the “oh my goodness” that you feel taking in the view, is exactly how Guinness intended to impress their legacy upon you. It should not surprise then that those who have experienced an Irish pint of the black stuff will insist that there is a discrepancy in taste between the South African-brewed product and the beer brewed at origin. This may be with good reason as I learned while enjoying that long-awaited Guinness and having a chinwag with Clem Manyathi, bar manager at The Twelve Bells on Kloof Nek Road in Cape Town. “We really struggle with supply,” he admitted when I broached the topic with him, eager to understand the possible causes for the discrepancy. This appears to be true across Cape Town, as demand seems to be top of mind for this cozy pub with an eclectic crossover of English and American appeal, that regularly sends out blasts on their social media platforms when they are resupplied. The reason for the unreliable supply is both impressive and frustrating. Clem satisfied my curiosity as he explained: “Master brewers from Ireland have been working with our local brewers recently, and that has slowed things down as they’re trying to make sure our output meets the Irish standard, which is high and even more difficult to achieve when the ports slow things down so much.” While Guinness only has physical breweries in a handful of countries outside of Ireland, the stout is brewed under license in many more. Anheuser- Busch Inbev, the Belgian-Brazilian multinational drink and brewing company that acquired SABMiller in 2016, received the go-ahead to begin producing Guinness in 2019. The brand, deeply steeped in the Irish pride on brilliant display at the Guinness storehouse in Dublin, has always been very serious about its standards. The ingredients, such as the pivotal roasted barley which gives the iconic beer its rich colour, are all imported from Ireland, with the exception of the water used. (The Guinness brewed in Ireland relies exclusively on water from the Wicklow Mountains near Dublin.) And then of course there’s the famous pour, which needs to be done with care in a two-step process to ensure the nitrogen bubbles can give the beverage its’ incredible creamy finish for which it is renowned. Between the high standards and our notoriously slow ports, you can begin to see just why a regular supply and variation in flavour may be an ongoing concern. But for how long have we been enjoying Guinness on the African continent? In 1803, as a result of the untimely passing of his father, Arthur Guinness II and his brothers took the reins of the brewery and began gradually expanding their exports. Intrepid businessmen, Arthur and siblings ensured that Guinness found its way to the African continent in 1827. The first ever recorded shipment arrived at the British colony in Sierra Leone and the African world of beer was changed forever. By the 1860s, their popular (for good reason, sporting an ABV of 7.5%) West Indies Porter, later redubbed Foreign Extra Stout, had reached South Africa. During these times, Guinness developed partnerships with local breweries to bottle their beer, ever aiming to improve the accessibility of their fine stout. As the decades marched on, so did progress and inevitably, the British Empire began to crumble as local populations throughout Africa took back control of their countries. Determined to continue its presence on the continent, Guinness needed to find a way to stay. The ideal opportunity presented itself when in 1960, Nigeria gained independence. Only two years later Guinness established its first brewery outside of Ireland and the UK in Ikeja, Nigeria, marking the single most significant milestone in the brand's expansion into Africa. Today, Guinness taps are found in pubs and bars across South Africa. Whether the lines are running may depend on your luck, which seems apt. If you’re in Cape Town and find yourself in the mood for an expedition, you could sample your way across the city. There are a bevy of delightful pubs to quench your craving and leave you with cheerful memories of beer and gallivants. Start at the Brass Bell in Kalk Bay, with ocean views to accompany that first pint, after which you’ll hop over to The Toad on the Road in Muizenberg, a lively spot to catch the weekend's sport, and maybe a bite to eat. Then over to an old favorite: Foresters Arms in Newlands, which is a classic English-style pub usually boasting a spirited bar crowd. You could then head down to Ferrymans Irish Tavern at the V&A, where you’re likely to catch some live entertainment and a jolly atmosphere. Finally, finish up at the new pub with the old soul, The Twelve Bells in Gardens, where Guinness isn’t just another beer on tap, it is granted the hero status it has earned. Guinness Trivia: Before 1939, if a Guinness employee wished to marry a Catholic, their resignation needed first be tendered. A pint of the "black stuff" at The Twelve Bells pub in Gardens, Cape Town.