OnTap Magazine

T he shared joy as a tower of giant Jenga bricks tumbles to the floor. The deep concentration as two pub-goers focus on their chess game, their pints relegated to the side lines, there only for absent-minded sipping between turns. The friendly rivalry that goes on between tables of strangers at the weekly pub quiz. I’ve always loved bar games, whether I’m partaking myself or just enjoying the sight of others pairing their beers with a bit of light competition. But I’ve never taken quite so much delight in watching someone play a pub game as I did on a recent visit to Plettenberg Bay. In fact, it wasn’t Plett central where the games took place, but in Kwanokuthula, 6km to the west. I had joined the inaugural iKasi Beer Hop, a half-day excursion to check out the beer scene in Kwano. The tour was part of the week- long Plett Oktoberfest, the first in what will hopefully become an annual event. Speaking of firsts, this was the first time, at least in my memory, that traditional African beer had been given the chance to share craft beer’s limelight, for a key part of the iKasi Beer Hop would be the tasting of umqombothi. A FAMILY BUSINESS We kick off with a crisp and moreish lager at Barrington’s – Plett’s newest microbrewery –beforemeetingWellington, our no-nonsense driver for the day. He sanitises our hands, makes sure our masks are firmly fitted and then ushers us into his minibus. Tsidy Noya is waiting for us as Wellington pulls into an open field opposite Skhulu’z Lounge in Kwano. On weekends, we are told, this field pumps. Revellers dance on the grass, food trucks keep tummies full and locals enjoy libations from Skhulu’z. It gets busy but never too raucous, partly because Tsidy has a strong commitment to the neighbourhood, and partly because of the immediate neighbours on the other side of the field – the local police force. Community is clearly very important to Tsidy. He makes sure the street his bar sits on is kept clean and he happily promotes other small businesses in the area. Skhulu’z is more than just a business to Tsidy – it is his heritage. “This place is as old as I am,” he says, telling us how his father, Amos, founded the bar in 1989. Its original name, Schoolboyz Jazz Café, still takes pride of place on the rooftop sign and old jazz LPs decorate the walls. These days the music is more deep house than classic jazz, though the venue is still associated with jazz tunes, with workshops and concerts held here from time to time. Tsidy’s father has passed away, but his mother is still very much involved and in fact it is her that we have really come to see. Sylvia Noyi is waiting for us in the family home adjoining the bar, along with the batch of umqombothi she has spent six days preparing. She sits on the stoep, shyly watching as our group samples the beer. For some, despite the fact that they have lived all their lives in South Africa, it is their first encounter with a traditional brew. Sylvia chuckles as some express their surprise at the colour (a sort of pinkish-tan) and the texture (“like YogiSip with bits” one person comments). The beer is complex, although definitely an acquired taste, and we sip slowly from blue plastic cups as Tsidy tells us a little about the process and traditions surrounding the beer. “My mother insisted that we come to the house for the beer rather than having it next door in the bar,” he tells us. “Umqombothi is usually only drunk at ceremonies or special events so it seemed more formal to taste it at our home.” I’m sure we break a number of traditions as we sip the beer, but Sylvia seems more than happy to have us there, briefly posing for a photo or two before we move on to our next stop. LOVE OF THE GAME Malibu Tavern is worlds apart from the family-run Skhulu’z and we are not here for traditional beer, but for the vibe. We buy a six-pack of Castle Double Malt and grab a table, awkwardly watching the action from the corner. It is a sunny Friday afternoon just after payday and although it’s still early, Malibu is pumping. Some people play pool, a few are dancing but in our group at least, most are mesmerised by the raucous game of draughts going on at a nearby table. It centres around one man, whose infectious grin lights up the bar just as much as the sun beams shining on his table do. He plays against anyone who sits down, including a member of our group keen to try his luck. No money changes hands – and you can quickly see why. The draughts player, who goes by the name of Ta Ras, is evidently quite the pro. Whether he ever makes money from playing I do not know, but he surely takes more joy from it than any player of any game I have ever witnessed. His happiness is contagious and we move on from Malibu with similar smiles on our faces. BARRINGTON’S Great beers, an innovative food menu, exquisite gardens and smart hotel rooms right above the brewhouse: Barrington’s really is the full package. It had a tough start,with the hotel opening in late 2019 and the brewery following in February 2020. Just weeks later, the pandemic hit and caused havoc for the alcohol, hospitality and brewing industries, but Barrington’s has bounced back. Locals love it, and if you’re Garden Route-bound this summer, I would highly recommend stopping by to find out why. Dropping in for a beer is recommended. Sticking around for lunch or dinner more so. But once you’re here you probably won’t want to pick up the car keys again, so booking a night or two at the boutique hotel is definitely first prize. barringtonsplett.co.za It is their first encounter with a traditional brew Maphiko Mncedisi Ncedani serves up a mini ukhamba of his umqombothi 40 | Summer 2021 | ontapmag.co.za