OnTap Magazine

ontapmag.co.za | Summer 2020 | 33 S ulphur gets a bad rap. Blamed for itchy noses, flushed faces and of course, those notorious headaches, the public has singled out sulphur as the bad guy of the booze world. But (and there are numerous spoiler alerts ahead), sulphur is not the villain of viniculture. Quite the contrary in fact. Sulphur dioxide has more in common with Robin Hood than the Sheriff of Nottingham; more Severus Snape than Lord Voldemort. As I stand in wine shops, pouring wine for the customers to taste and hopefully buy, there is always at least one customer who dramatically claims to be allergic to sulphur. In the nicest and least condescending manner, I try to explain to them that it is actually impossible to be allergic to sulphur, and the symptoms they’re describing don’t actually point to sulphur being the culprit. Of course, I am no doctor, but I am a professional wine drinker. But before we get into that, let’s back up a little and first look at why wine needs added sulphur. Sulphur dioxide (SO 2 ) is used in winemaking to protect the wine from unwelcome yeasts and bacteria, keeping the wine stable – particularly important for when the bottles have to be transported. Sulphur also protects the wine from oxidation – that is, it stops the juice from turning brown, and preserves the bright, fresh fruit flavours. It is used at most stages of white wine making from crushing to bottling. In red wine, it is used less so since reds naturally contain more antioxidants and antiseptics. But the finishedproductwill always containacertain level of sulphites. Yes, that’s right: sulphur is a by-product of alcoholic fermentation and is present even in ‘natural’ wines that contain “no added sulphur”. AN ANCIENT PEDRIGREE The process of using sulphites in wine has been around since as far back as ancient Rome. Back in Roman times, winemakers would burn candles made of sulphur in empty wine containers (amphora) to keep the wines from literally turning to vinegar. Sulphur started to be used in winemaking (instead of cleaning wine barrels) in the early 1900s to stop bacteria and other yeasts from growing. Sulphur dioxide is certainly the most vital additive used in wine. Often, with a more minimalistic and natural approach to winemaking, it is in fact the only additive. Its value derives from its ability to execute several essential functions, akin to an all- purpose household cleaning product. Tremayne Smith, winemaker at Fable Mountain Vineyards and his own label BlacksmithWines, prides himself onmaking wines as clean as possible. “I’m not scared to use sulphur in my wines,” he says. “But Sulphur dioxide has more in common with Robin Hood than the Sheriff of Nottingham there are some wines that I choose to use less sulphur in if it’s possible. I don’t have a set recipe for it. If the wine has a healthy pH and total acidity and we can use less sulphur then we do. But if the wine needs it, then we will add. Sulphur dioxide can mute the wine, but again it’s down to the cultivar and the style and when the SO 2 was added. If you make a wine to be cellared for years in the bottle then SO 2 is your friend.” AM I ALLERGIC TO SULPHUR? Consumption of sulphites is generally harmless, unless you suffer from severe asthma or do not have the particular enzymes necessary to break down sulphites in your body, which is very rare. It is, in fact, estimated that about 1% of the population is intolerant to sulphur, and they will generally suffer from chronic asthma. Sulphites literally cannot provoke an immune response, which is required for something to be considered an allergy, and moreover, the levels present in most wines are not even worth discussing from a health perspective. If truth be told, sulphur dioxide is used everywhere in the food industry, as it is a proven way to protect perishable items from oxidation. Chances are you will ingest more sulphites in your average restaurant dinner than from the glass or three of wine you sip with it. So, do sulphites cause headaches? Many wine drinkers I’ve met inherently claim they do. Science says they don’t. Sulphur is much more prevalent in common foods that are not singled out for triggering headache attacks, such as dried fruit. Organic wines contain lower levels of sulphites or have none added at all, but still people insist that any sulphur present is to blame for that post-wine headache. In addition, published medical research has not yet established any links between the presence of sulphites and headaches. But people often complain of the dreaded RWH (red wine headache), and naively blame the sulphite. Ironically white and rosé wine is higher in sulphites than red wine, because generally they are not left on their skins after crushing. The tannins from the grape seeds and skins help prevent oxidation in red wine. For this reason white wines are more prone to oxidation and tend to be given larger doses of sulphur dioxide. They are however less likely to cause the consumer a headache, which suggests that it’s probably something else in red wine that’s responsible for the notorious red wine headache. MEET THE ACTUAL WINE VILLAINS: BIOGENIC AMINES Biogenic amines are organic nitrogen compounds that are produced naturally during winemaking. They include compounds like histamine, tyramine, putrescine, and cadaverine. Unlike sulphites, these substances can generate dry red jam soda prepared soup french fries candy 3,700 SO 2 in PPM 1,850 0 commercial wines Source: Winefolly packaged meats frozen juices dried fruit SULPHITES IN WINE