OnTap Magazine

and with makeshift equipment – including sharpened spades – they shear the plant of its devils’ spines and expose the piña (heart). e heart is tossed into a re pit and covered to let it smoke straight o the burning embers. is is the rustic technique used to make mezcal, famed for its complexity and smoky pro le. e raw fermented product is then distilled at Oude Molen Distillery in Grabouw. LEARNING FROM THE MASTERS However, the real lioness behind the agave awakening in South Africa is Sarah Kennan. Her brand Leonista has been forged in the heat of her custom-built agave ovens in the Karoo and then distilled at Schoonspruit distillery in Ventersdorp. Her love for the spirit began at university when, out of curiosity, she purchased a 100% agave tequila. From the moment of her rst sip she knew that she had found her calling and set about evangelising the spirit. ree years ago she spent time in Mexico, sealing her gusto for all things agave. It is not hard to get engrossed by her passion as she spins a yarn of the spirit’s supposed origin. “A lightning bolt struck the agave plant and the juice ran out and fermented with wild yeast,” she tells. “People noticed that the animals consumed the nectar and behaved di erently so they decided to try it. e side e ects led them to believe they were closer to their gods and the love a air began”. Kennan, who has travelled to the town of Tequila to learn the art from the masters, also spends time in America where she notes an emerging trend in the local microbrewing scene. “Mezcal and beer have a link,” she says. “Breweries are bringing out a range of mezcals to complement their o ering.” Sarah also notes that the spirit has many chef fans as it has great versatility and complexity. When we met at Drifter Brewing Company in Cape Town, she served me spiced tomato juice as a palate cleanser and combined it with the smooth and subtly smoky Leonista Blanco to make a Bloody Maria – to me an in nitely more rewarding experience than the famed Bloody Mary. Perhaps its link to craft beer is that agave spirit is reliant on the air and creativity of the producer who also needs to be exible enough to adapt to the inconsistency of raw materials and the magic of fermentation. To appreciate ne things is to understand the origin, process and passion behind the products. Go out and appreciate these pioneers’ passion, support local and get a happy buzz. No shuddering or face-pulling required. 6he lioness oH 5outh #Hrican #gave Sarah Kennan Lucy Beard from Hope on Hopkins /e\cal fire pit at th 4abbit AGAVE IN PICTURES AGAINST THE GRAIN