OnTap Magazine

I n the late 1990’s the craft beer scene in the USA was exploding. However, the list at a typical taproom looked a lot different from today. American Pale Ale was all the rage, and there were usually lagers, stouts and porters – and somewhere in between, a red and brown ale. This menu was possibly conceived because the colour progression from straw-coloured, through red and brown to black was easy to explain to novice craft beer drinkers. IPAs and Belgian styles were yet to make an appearance. The red ale, or American Amber Ale as described by the BJCP Guidelines, is still around but is not a very fashionable style today. However, it is still a very drinkable beer when done well, with a beautiful balance of significant caramel malt and noticeable American hops, and was listed by Beer Connoisseur magazine as one of 13 classic styles that need a comeback. It appears that the first red or amber ale was Red Tail Ale in 1983 from Mendocino Brewing in California, sadly a brewery that no longer exists. They grew quickly in the 1980’s and 90’s, particularly in Northern California and the Pacific Northwest states of Oregon and Washington, and are still associated with those areas. THE CHARACTERISTICS OF AN AMERICAN AMBER The main characteristics of American Amber Ales are their dark amber to red colour, caramel malt flavor (without being too sweet) and American hops. In the 2021 BJCP Guidelines, the style category is 19A and is described as “An amber, hoppy, moderate-strength American craft beer with a malty caramel flavor.” • Hops are low to moderate in aroma and moderate to high in flavor. • The malt is moderate on the nose and moderate to high in the flavor. • The balance can vary slightly on either side of even. • Body is medium to medium full and carbonation is medium to high. • The vital statistics read 25 – 40 IBUs; 10 – 17 SRM; and 4.5% – 6.2% ABV. • The style allows for a range of aromas, flavours and balance within these parameters. • American Amber Ales are similar to American Pale Ales, but with a darker colour and most importantly with more caramel malt backbone. The hop aroma, flavor and taste are similar in both styles. Some authors interpret this style as an American attempt at a British Strong Bitter with American ingredients, just as an American Pale Ale is interpreted as an attempt at a British Ordinary Bitter with American ingredients (possibly by American brewers who did not understand the British styles well!). In fact, many red ales in the Pacific Northwest are labelled as ‘Extra Special Bitter’ or ‘ESB’. However, this term as used in the USA needs some clarification. In the 1990’s, Redhook ESB from the Redhook Brewery in Seattle, Washington was one of the most popular and ubiquitous craft beers andother breweries followed suit with the name. This author remembers seeing it at many beer bars and festivals, and it is still a popular beer. However, it is neither a clone of Fuller’s ESB nor is it a classical English Strong Bitter (BJCP category 11C). The “caramel malt sweetness and subtle spicy and citrusy hop flavors” mentioned on the Redhook website makes that clear. The beers labelled ‘ESB’ in America today are closer to an American Amber Ale than to an English Strong Bitter. The versions of the 1990’s was slightly sweet, but with time they became drier, though still retaining the caramel malt presence. As happened with most beer styles, brewers started making stronger and “hoppier” versions as well. Since the 2015 BJCP Style Guidelines, these have been split off as Red IPAs under the Specialty IPA style (21B). A LOCAL FLAVOUR In South Africa, there have not been many commercial versions of American Amber Ale. One of the first local craft beers available in this style was Woodhead Amber from Devil’s Peak. This has unfortunately been discontinued. Fortunately, Jack Black’s Lumberjack has recently made a welcome return after a time away. At 40 IBU’s, 17 SRM and 6% ABV it is at the upper end but within the style guidelines. The caramel malt and American hop balance is a good example of the style and shows what can be done with a fairly even balance of hops and malt, both at a level slightly higher than moderate. It has become one of my favourite local commercial beers. In fact, I’m drinking one as I’m writing this. Cheers! What makes a beer an American Amber? American Amber Ale or an attempt at a British Strong Bitter? African Amber Ale from Mac & Jack’s Brewing Company in Redmond, Washington. What makes it African is a mystery! New Belgium Brewing Company’s Fat Tire Ale, a well-known example Original logo of Full Sail Amber Ale, one of the classic commercial examples Redhook ESB logo IBU International Bitterness Units ABV Alcohol By Volume SRM Standard Reference Method (relating to colour) ontapmag.co.za | Spring 2023 | 47